We started through narrow alleys at 5 a.m., moving past somnolent cows curled against doorways and gaunt dogs on steps and women in saris moving toward us through the gloom, a motorbike vrooming in the distance.
“Watch where you walk,” said our guide, nicknamed A.K. — a native of this ancient city of nearly 1.2 million in northeast India, a short, sturdy man distinguished by his white cap with Reebok logo — leading us toward our dawn boat ride on the Ganges. “Organic land mines,” he warned us as we hopscotched over the cow patties and turned into an alley slightly wider than the first.A.K. knew what patter worked with Westerners, how to put at ease first-timers to India like us, now at one of the holiest places in Hindu lore. “The Ganges flows east and west,” A.K. said, part of his practiced routine, “but here it flows north and south, so it can touch Varanasi.” ........keep reading ....... http://stfi.re/bwpxvdx
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